On the morning of December 1, only days after local authorities cleared encroachments and demanded signed safety pledges, the cafés along the railway tracks near Kham Thien and Le Duan in Hanoi were back in full operation - crowded with both domestic and foreign tourists.

Back to business as usual: Vendors and visitors reclaim the tracks

Late last November, enforcement teams targeted businesses operating illegally along the tracks near Phung Hung, Tran Phu–Dien Bien Phu, and Kham Thien–Le Duan. Officials instructed all café owners to commit in writing not to occupy the railway safety corridor.

But by early December, the scene had already returned to what it was before. Foot traffic surged, cameras were raised, and the tracks became the center of both commerce and spectacle once again.

Photos taken around 9–12 a.m. on December 1 showed hundreds of visitors packed along the railway cafés near Kham Thien, many eagerly waiting for the next train to pass. Some café staff were seen standing between the tracks, actively calling tourists in.

Vendors hustle, tourists pose dangerously close to trains

Workers hurriedly carried drinks to tables, while street vendors approached tourists with souvenirs and snacks. In between train schedules, café owners pushed tables and chairs right up to the tracks.

Despite a recent viral video showing a train plowing through this same stretch and sending tables flying while panicked tourists scrambled for safety, many visitors still posed dangerously close to the passing locomotives.

When trains approached, some café owners would shout to usher guests indoors and quickly remove chairs and tables. Yet in several spots, people and furniture remained alarmingly close to the moving carriages.

Risk embraced as attraction

While the proximity to danger might terrify some, others found it thrilling. As trains thundered past, tourists held up their phones to snap photos and shoot videos, unfazed by how close they were to disaster.

This area, especially around the Tran Phu–Dien Bien Phu section, has been spotlighted for years by both local and international media for its unique yet hazardous draw. The “train street café” experience has been repeatedly named as a must-see for tourists seeking adrenaline and Instagrammable moments.

Despite safety campaigns and recurring warnings from authorities, this chaotic cycle of enforcement and resurgence continues to repeat itself.

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The railway cafés resume operation at dusk on December 1. Photo: Phuc Tai
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Tourists crowd the tracks near Kham Thien, waiting for the train. Photo: Phuc Tai
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A vendor rushes to serve tourists along the tracks. Photo: Phuc Tai
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Street vendors and café staff navigate between curious visitors. Photo: Phuc Tai
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Tables and chairs are set up right next to the railway line. Photo: Phuc Tai
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Tourists cheerfully photograph passing trains just inches away. Photo: Phuc Tai
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Phuc Tai