From the Temple of Thien Hau to the Temple of Mau, from Chuong Pagoda to Van Mieu – Xich Dang, the spiritual journey across Pho Hien is a timeless thread connecting dynasties, communities, and diverse cultural currents.

For over 400 years, Pho Hien (Hung Yen) has been more than a relic of the saying “first Thang Long, second Pho Hien” - a symbol of flourishing trade during the open-port era. It is also a vibrant tapestry of cultural and spiritual heritage. Within modern-day Hung Yen City, a network of 16 relics forming the Pho Hien Complex - designated as a National Special Relic Site in 2014 - still preserves the architectural and cultural imprints of Vietnamese, Chinese, Japanese, and Western presences in this historic town.

To explore Pho Hien is not simply to visit ancient relics. It is a spiritual return to one’s roots - a map of sacred beliefs shaped by folk spirituality, Confucianism, Buddhism, Taoism, and the maritime culture of the Chinese diaspora, all unfolding along the Red River’s banks.

 Thien Hau Temple

Located on Trung Trac Street, Quang Trung Ward, the Temple of Thien Hau is the spiritual heart of the Chinese community in Pho Hien. It honors Lam Tuc Mac, a sea goddess from Putian, Fujian Province, China - venerated as Saint Mother Thien Hau.

Legend has it that she was born on the 23rd day of the third lunar month, with an extraordinary aura: a fragrant scent surrounded her at birth, a divine glow followed her, and she didn’t cry during her full-month celebration, hence the name Lam Mac Nuong. She was intelligent, compassionate, and skilled in medicine. She once taught villagers how to fight epidemics, found seaweed to eat during famine, and discovered the Ma Moc tree whose seeds sustained the poor through hunger. She also subdued two guardian spirits - Thien Ly Nhan and Thien Ly Nhi - who could see and hear over great distances, to protect fishing communities from pirates.

In the late 16th to early 17th century, fourteen Chinese clans from Guangdong, Guangxi, and Fujian funded the materials, brought skilled artisans, and joined with Vietnamese craftsmen to build the temple. To this day, it remains one of the few intact Chinese architectural structures in Pho Hien.

Right in front of the Tam Quan gate stands a famous pair of granite stone lions, immortalized in the folk verse:

"Who returns to the provincial capital of Hung Yen
Visit Thien Hau Temple, flanked by loyal stone lions..."

Van Mieu – Xich Dang

Leaving the Chinese enclave, the journey shifts to a purely Vietnamese spiritual space at Van Mieu – Xich Dang in Lam Son Ward. This Confucian temple honors Confucius, esteemed scholars of Confucianism, and teacher Chu Van An. Originally constructed during the Later Le dynasty, it underwent major restoration in the 20th year of the Minh Mang reign (1839). Its architecture reflects the royal Hue style: three-entrance gate, bell tower, khanh (gong) tower, and two symmetrical ceremonial halls.

The site features nine stone steles recording the names of Hung Yen’s distinguished scholars, along with a bronze bell, stone khanh, and intricately carved altarpieces. Every year on the 4th and 5th days of Tet, Van Mieu becomes a spring festival ground with incense offerings, ca tru singing, and first-pen ceremonies - a vibrant convergence of scholarly tradition and local pride in Hung Yen, land of longan.

May Temple 

Heading to Lam Son Ward, the May Temple is dedicated to General Pham Bach Ho, one of the Twelve Warlords from the time of Dinh Bo Linh. In addition to offering prayers, visitors can admire exquisite architectural elements representative of the Le and Nguyen dynasties. The temple also houses 18 royal decrees and numerous rare antiques.

Chuong Pagoda

Known as the foremost sacred site of Pho Hien, Chuong Pagoda is immortalized in the phrase: "first Thang Long, second Pho Hien." Built in the early days and extensively renovated in 1702 and 1711, the pagoda follows the "inner kong, outer quoc" architectural plan with the harmonious “four waters return to the hall” layout, stretching from the triple gate to the Mother’s Hall.

The site preserves a stone stele from 1711 listing over 20 guilds and markets that flourished in Pho Hien's golden age. The pagoda’s statue collection is rich and diverse, featuring the Eighteen Arhats, the Ten Kings of Hell, and the Eight Vajra Guardians - creating a deeply serene and sacred atmosphere.

Mau Temple 

Majestically situated beside the poetic Crescent Lake, the Temple of Mau is another spiritual landmark. The Pho Hien journey continues through other sacred sites soaked in history: Kim Dang Temple venerating General Dinh Dien; An Vu Communal House, imbued with the spiritual essence of the Hung Kings era; and Nam Hoa Temple, a place where three celestial deities are worshipped.

Further along are the Tran Temple - bearing the legacy of Hung Dao Vuong, the Mother Temple by the Crescent Lake, Pho Pagoda and Vo Mieu - bearing strong Chinese influences. The final stop is the Temple of Lady Chua Kho, concluding a pilgrimage that reveals Pho Hien as a place of cultural confluence, enduring belief, and resilient heritage through time.

According to Bui Thi Luong, Deputy Director of Hung Yen’s Department of Culture, Sports and Tourism, these spiritual landmarks have become synonymous with the identity of Pho Hien. Through strategic investments, modern approaches, and strong community engagement, Hung Yen is gradually transforming its cultural heritage into a source of soft power - shaping identity, promoting green growth, and driving sustainable tourism development.

Tinh Le