Queueing at midnight

At midnight, the sidewalk on Tran Binh Trong Street (Cho Quan Ward, Ho Chi Minh City) is packed with people and motorbikes. While every table along the pavement is occupied, a line of customers waits patiently in front of a glass cabinet filled with ingredients.

Behind the cabinet, three to four women work busily to prepare each order. Everyone moves quickly as new requests keep pouring in.

This is a famous late-night hu tieu stall run by Luong Thi My Trang (born 1974, Cho Quan Ward), who has been operating it for nearly a decade. According to Ms. Trang, the stall has consistently attracted a large number of loyal patrons.
Despite the late hour, diners crowd the tables set up on the sidewalk by Ms. Trang. Photo: Ha Nguyen

Initially, she sold only Nam Vang-style hu tieu. Later, realizing that a limited menu might deter customers, she decided to create her own versions using pork and chicken to offer more choices.

She shared, “I don’t have any special secret. Maybe it’s just that the food is clean and suits the taste of many people.

At first, I struggled to find the right recipe that matched what customers liked. Over time, through experience and listening to their feedback, I figured out a method that works for most people.”

“I simmer pork ribs, pork bones, chicken bones, and a variety of vegetables to create the broth. As for the meats, I only choose the freshest cuts and prepare them carefully,” she added.

The stall mainly serves pork or chicken hu tieu, priced between 35,000 VND and 100,000 VND (approximately USD 1.40 - 4.00). Toppings include pork heart, liver, intestines, throat, tongue, stomach, lean meat, pork leg, pork ribs, shredded chicken, chopped chicken, chicken embryos, and chicken innards. In addition to hu tieu, she also offers bánh canh, glass noodles, macaroni, instant noodles, and egg noodles.

The broth is clear, naturally sweet and rich, flavorful without being greasy. The toppings are sliced into neat, bite-sized pieces. Both the pork and chicken are tender and retain their natural sweetness.

One of the highlights is a unique dipping sauce made from premium fish sauce and lime leaves, creating a distinctive and appetizing flavor that enhances the overall dish.

Waiting 45 minutes for a bowl
With no seating available, latecomers line up patiently for their turn. Photo: Ha Nguyen

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Ms. Trang, the owner, said her secret lies in pleasing the customers' taste. Photo: Ha Nguyen
The stall's hu tieu features a clear broth, rich flavors, and varied toppings. Photo: Ha Nguyen

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Even with long wait times, most diners remain patient and eager to try the food. Photo: Ha Nguyen

Due to the lack of indoor space, Ms. Trang operates entirely on the sidewalk from evening until 4 a.m.

Each night, she sets up multiple stainless steel tables along the pavement, but there’s never enough seating for all her customers. Latecomers must either wait or opt for takeout.

Most patrons endure a wait of 30 to 45 minutes to be served. Still, few complain or leave.

Thanh, a 37-year-old local resident, brought her family and a Vietnamese friend visiting from overseas to try the hu tieu. A regular customer, she’s no stranger to the long wait.

“I usually eat here late at night. Almost every time, I have to wait around 30 to 40 minutes. I jokingly call this ‘the stall for the patient,’” Thanh said.

“But the food is delicious. The place is always lively, which makes for a warm, welcoming atmosphere. That’s why I keep coming back with my family.”

Similarly, Thu Ngan (20) and her friend My (also 20) had to wait nearly 45 minutes to enjoy their steaming bowls. Curious after seeing the stall crowded even at midnight, they decided to try it for themselves.

After waiting about 20 minutes in line, the two were finally guided to a table just vacated by previous diners. They then waited another 20 minutes to receive their food.

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Thu Ngan (right) and her friend shared that the dishes were well worth the wait. Photo: Ha Nguyen

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Ms. Trang attributes the slow service to on-the-spot preparation and high demand. Photo: Ha Nguyen

“We’ve known about this place for a few months,” said Ngan. “After checking online reviews, we decided to give it a try. Although we expected a wait, we were still surprised by how long it took.

But the food was worth it. The broth was sweet and clear, the chicken firm and flavorful. The dipping sauce was spot on. The only downside is the long wait, which isn’t ideal if you’re starving.”

Ms. Trang explained that the delay is due to the high volume of customers and the need to prepare every dish on the spot.

“Even though my staff and I work at full capacity every night, we simply can’t keep up with the demand. Every dish is freshly made to order, which takes time,” she said.

The stall serves both dine-in and takeout customers, but every bowl is cooked fresh – never pre-packaged in containers or plastic bags.

“Many people order dry hu tieu, which takes even longer to prepare. Despite our best efforts, it’s hard to serve everyone quickly. Fortunately, our customers are understanding and keep supporting us,” she added.

Hidden in an alley on Dinh Tien Hoang Street (Gia Dinh Ward, Ho Chi Minh City), the decades-old Huyen broken rice stall operates through the night and has earned the eerie nickname “ghost rice” for its strange hours.

Ha Nguyen