For nearly 50 years, Chè Mười Sáu has preserved Hanoi’s traditional dessert flavors, attracting generations of loyal fans.
Chè Mười Sáu is one of Hanoi’s most iconic dessert shops, standing proudly among famed names like Chè Bà Thin, Chè Loc Tai, and Chè Bon Mua. For nearly five decades, its traditional sweet soups have become a cherished memory for generations of Hanoians.
Inside a gleaming stainless-steel counter, nearly 20 trays of ingredients such as black beans, mung bean paste, tapioca pearls, lotus seeds, mung bean sticky rice, and grass jelly are neatly arranged. Pham Xuan Thanh, born in 1950 and the owner of Chè Mười Sáu on Lo Duc Street, skillfully scoops servings for the bustling crowd.
Even with over 30 customers arriving at once, each ordering different types of chè, the 75-year-old owner swiftly fulfills orders from memory, instructing his staff to add more ice, napkins, and arrange extra chairs.
“I started out helping my in-laws, then my wife and I ran the business together. It's been almost 50 years now. Everything has become second nature to me - just by looking at the bean skin or color, I can tell which needs longer boiling,” Mr. Thanh shared.
Mr. Thanh serves each cup of chè with practiced ease. Photo: Huy Nguyen
The origin of the shop traces back to Nguyen Thi Nghia Loc, Mr. Thanh’s mother-in-law, a gifted cook from Hanoi. In the 1960s, she sold black bean and lotus seed chè from a shoulder pole through the Old Quarter and Hom Market. In 1978, she and her children opened a formal shop at 16 Ngo Thi Nham Street.
“At first, people just called it Chè Bà Loc or Hom Market chè. When we opened the shop, our family decided on the name ‘Chè Mười Sáu’ to reflect the address - number 16 - and also evoke the age of sixteen, when everyone loves sweets.
At one point, I even kept the menu at exactly 16 items to match the name,” Mr. Thanh recounted.
A cup of mixed chè with mung beans, black beans, lotus seeds, jelly, fresh coconut, and a sticky rice dumpling costs 30,000 VND (approx. $1.20). Photo: Huy Nguyen
From 1995 onward, the shop grew immensely popular. Crowds spilled out onto the sidewalk, forming long lines for takeaway orders. Signature flavors like black bean, lotus-coconut, mung bean, and sticky rice chè remain customer favorites despite countless new dessert places sprouting across Hanoi.
Over a year ago, Mr. Thanh and his wife opened a new branch on Lo Duc Street, while his sister-in-law's family continues operating the original location on Ngo Thi Nham Street.
Following the teachings of Mrs. Loc, the family maintains Hanoi’s traditional chè recipes, refusing to chase trendy or fusion dishes. “My mother-in-law always reminded us that while profit matters, we must never compromise on quality for greed,” he said.
The shop is busiest between 12:00-13:00 and 15:30-17:30 daily. Photo: Huy Nguyen
Currently, the couple serves 18 traditional chè and dessert items, including three seasonal varieties - hot black bean, floating rice dumplings, and caramelized ginger chè available only in winter. Gac-infused sticky rice is made exclusively on the 1st and 15th of each lunar month.
Each day at 5 a.m., Mr. and Mrs. Thanh begin preparing their chè, sticky rice, and cakes with four staff members. Mr. Thanh inspects all ingredients upon delivery from trusted suppliers.
All ingredients are prepared fresh daily - nothing is carried over to the next day. Photo: Huy Nguyen
“Black beans must be whole, round, and plump with a green core; mung beans must have a golden center. For sticky rice, we use the premium nếp cái hoa vàng variety grown along the Red River, known for its fragrant aroma. We also use mature lotus seeds - peeled and de-cored carefully. During late summer, we use fresh seeds, while dried seeds are used for the rest of the year,” he explained.
Compared to the early days, chè preparation today is less labor-intensive. “Back then, we soaked and sorted beans ourselves, discarded bad seeds, and cooked everything over coal for hours. Now we use electric stoves, and suppliers do some pre-processing,” he added.
Still, proper technique is crucial. “To make good chè, you must control the heat precisely. Beans must be tender and fragrant without breaking apart. Each batch has its own boiling and sweetening time, which takes experience. The same goes for lotus seeds,” said Mr. Thanh.
At 75, Mr. Thanh still prepares chè personally. Photo: Huy Nguyen
While black beans require the longest cooking time, tapioca pearls are the most labor-intensive - from mixing and kneading the dough, slicing coconut, to hand-rolling each pearl uniformly before boiling.
“My wife used to be very skilled at shaping the pearls. Now that her health has declined, she’s trained our staff, but we still inspect every batch,” he said.
Handmade tapioca pearls are rolled into uniform, jewel-like shapes. Photo: Huy Nguyen
The most complex yet beloved item is the gac sticky rice. On the 1st and 15th of the lunar month, customers line up from 6 a.m. to buy it for religious offerings.
Made from nếp cái hoa vàng rice, mung beans, and gac fruit, the dish requires precise steaming. To keep the grains glossy, the shop uses vegetable oil instead of lard, making it more suitable for ceremonial use.
The shop is famous for its xoi vo gac and stir-fried green rice. Photo: Provided by the shop
Nga (fifth from right) and coworkers enjoy chè during their lunch break. Photo: Huy NguyenGiang Bao Ngoc (far left) and colleagues also favor chè Mười Sáu as a post-lunch treat. Photo: Huy Nguyen
Despite the newer and more spacious location, prices remain unchanged - ranging from 15,000 to 30,000 VND ($0.60 to $1.20) per serving.
Nga, a long-time customer of nearly 20 years, frequented both branches and regularly orders chè for office parties. “They only serve traditional chè, but I never get bored. My favorites are black bean, mung bean, floating dumplings, and gac sticky rice. These flavors seem simple, but it’s hard to find this kind of authentic taste at newer places,” she said.
Vietnamnet.vn
Podcast
.svg){kind=icon}
