“I am Lao by ethnicity, born and raised in Dien Bien,” said Lo Thi Vien, director of the Lao Na Sang 2 Brocade Weaving Cooperative, with a warm voice and a gentle smile.

“During the war, my grandparents migrated from Laos to Nua Ngam commune. When peace returned, they found the land peaceful and the community welcoming, so they decided to settle here. Many Lao people now live in Dien Bien.”

Weaving brocade is an ancient cultural tradition of the Lao people. In Vien’s childhood, the rhythmic click-clack of wooden looms was a familiar daily sound in the village. The images of looms and fabric dyed with brown root, indigo leaves, and tree bark were inseparable from the lives of Lao women.

Although it shares common roots with other ethnic weaving practices, Lao brocade features distinct dyeing and weaving techniques. While using natural dyes like tree bark, leaves, and lac, Vien inherited her mother’s secret recipes for color stabilization - blending wine, sour agents, and spices in precise ratios to create long-lasting, vibrant hues.

Looms and naturally dyed fabrics made with brown roots, indigo leaves, and bark. Photo: Provided by the subject

“My mother was incredibly skilled,” Vien shared. “In her youth, she was chosen to weave exclusive patterns used only by aristocrats’ wives. I still preserve some brocade pieces from my ancestors that are over a hundred years old. One silk scarf still retains its color perfectly.”

Each motif holds deep cultural significance. “My favorite is the elephant pattern, a symbol of the Land of a Million Elephants,” Vien said. “Sadly, some intricate patterns have been lost over time.”

In the late 1990s, cheap textile imports from China flooded the market. Many in her village abandoned their looms, and for a long period, the once-vibrant weaving tradition fell silent.

“I feared that one day, our children would no longer know what the elephant motif meant, nor remember that the Lao once had such beautiful weaving traditions,” Vien confided.

Persistence in the face of loss

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Each motif is tied to Lao history, beliefs, and traditions. Photo: Binh Minh

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A 100-year-old silk scarf preserved by Vien. Photo: Binh Minh

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Some complex patterns have already been lost. Photo: Binh Minh

It was this fear that sparked Vien’s resolve to act.

In 2001, she gathered over 40 women in her village to form a weaving group, painstakingly restoring forgotten patterns and reviving the beauty of Lao brocade.

Soon after, orders began to arrive - from the Dien Bien Phu Victory Museum and even international tourists who, enchanted by the products, sought out the artisans in the village. This surge of interest became a powerful source of encouragement.

In 2007, the Lao Na Sang 2 Brocade Weaving Cooperative was officially established to create stable jobs for locals. Of the village’s 84 households, only 5 are not involved in weaving.

“In the past, even though many women knew how to weave, they didn’t know where to sell their work,” Vien explained. “The cooperative has helped secure stable markets.”

The cooperative now has 15 official members, but when orders spike, over 30 women in the village step in. On average, each earns about VND3 million per month (approximately $123) from weaving.

“In the past, we earned only VND20,000–30,000 ($0.82–$1.23) per day from foraging in the forest or selling vegetables. Now, we can stay home, keep the tradition alive, and still earn a living. Everyone is happy,” Vien said.

To bring Lao brocade to a wider audience, Vien spent years traveling across provinces to showcase products at trade fairs and exhibitions. While some programs covered booth fees, travel and accommodations were always self-funded.

“At a fair in Ho Chi Minh City in 2009, I displayed my products in baskets and back-carriers. A foreign visitor came, asked for the total cost, and bought everything. I was overwhelmed with joy,” Vien recalled. “Although I was allowed one sightseeing day, I chose to stay at the booth all five days and sold out completely.”

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The Lao Na Sang 2 brocade cooperative creates jobs for local women. Photo: Provided by the subject

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Vien (left) presents products at many trade fairs. Photo: Binh Minh

The cooperative’s product line is diverse. Photo: Binh Minh

Vien hopes for more equipment to increase productivity and competitiveness. Photo: Provided by the subject

Weaving tools were also a challenge. Vietnam doesn’t produce traditional Lao weaving combs, so Vien asked a friend to accompany her to Vientiane to buy 20 sets. With them, she revived intricate designs reflecting Lao cultural identity.

Over the years, the cooperative has become a model in Dien Bien for preserving ethnic culture and boosting local economic development.

Their product range is diverse - skirts, bags, scarves, duvet covers, pillowcases, and clothing - priced from a few hundred thousand to several million dong, catering to a wide range of customers.

“I need to make around VND50–60 million ($2,055–$2,466) monthly to cover payments to the women,” Vien said. “Profits are modest - sometimes just a few thousand dong per item. I’m not rich in money, but I’m rich in love. The villagers adore me,” she laughed.

Though proud of the cooperative’s achievements, Vien still has dreams and concerns.

“My biggest wish now is to get machines like cotton pressing, seed separating, and fiber fluffing tools to reduce labor and processing costs. That way, our prices can be more competitive,” she explained.

“A director from the Department of Industry and Trade told me that if I find a supplier, they’re ready to help fund the purchase. I’m very hopeful we’ll find one soon.”

Before we parted, Vien shared that she had just received an invitation from the Dien Bien Department of Culture, Sports and Tourism to visit China later this month to share her weaving experience.

For artisan Lo Thi Vien, it’s not only an opportunity to learn but also to spread the timeless beauty of Lao brocade weaving to the world.

Binh Minh